“I feel very strongly that clothes that fit well make a person feel better. It’s maybe half the value of the merchandise.” Jil Sander
ICB knows that fashion begins with the body. We enclose it in fabrics, cut asymmetrical lines that create instant impact, and sculpture those shapes into the future. THAT is silhouette. Details such as nuances of colors, edges, and contours begin to create visions of future body-forms.
But where did these silhouette body-forms come from? Any sculptor from the future and ancient worlds will remind you that any three-dimensional form should be highly considered from every angle. We can’t pay homage to ICB’s current body-forms without giving a nod to 20th century silhouettes. Afterall, we clearly see earlier silhouette game-changers right now in the future.
Elsa Schiaparelli, one of the first game-changers in styling and fashion, claims sole responsibility for the invention of shoulder pads, emitting a silhouette that creates strong shoulders and body structures on pulp-noir beauties we’ll never forget.
Elsa Schiaparelli 1930’s
Lauren Bacall in Elsa Schiaparelli, 1940’s
Norma Kamali and Donna Karan took nods from Shiaparelli’s book of body-forms and incorporated them into their eponymous silhouettes of the 80’s.
Antonio Lopez Illustrations for Norma Kamali Campaign, 1980’s
Norma Kamali, 1980’s
Box-Shouldered Icon, Grace Jones
Donna Karan, 1980’s
Onwards into one of our favorite decades: the 1990’s. This decade’s Anti-fashion silhouette began to produce an aversion to…well, fashion itself. But what a great aversion!
“A Year in Fashion” series illustrates ever-changing silhouettes
Aversions are the key ingredient to happy-accidents in fashion silhouettes. Without them, the current evolution of 3-D printing in fashion would lie dormant.
Calvin Klein’s Minimal Silhouettes
Isaac Mizrahi, 1990’s
Helmut Lang, 1990’s
The most widespread expression of the 90s fashion silhouette is perhaps minimalism–simple camisoles, jeans, and sneakers. The 90s is a unique decade for its play into many of the past decades’ trends; for example, the structural boxy female suits referenced in the 40s, a resurgence of peasant tops and bellbottom pants recalled the 70s, and exercise wear such as leggings remembered in the Flashdance days of the 80s.Helmut Lang Campaign, 1990’s shot by Juergen Teller Jil Sander, 1990’s
Jil Sander, 1990’s
Today at ICB we’re contending with what works best for our vision of future silhouettes. Make no mistake, body-geography and blueprints endlessly abound with a dizzying area of silhouettes. These maybe be characterized as triangle, square, inverted triangle, trapeze, boxy, hourglass, fitted, pear shaped, pencil, cocoon, trumpet, flute, pouf, and mermaid, and so on.
Whatever your fit, ICB’s feminine, structural, relaxed, and multi-dimensional silhouettes time travel seamlessly through the ages.